Myth

The Food Gal and I anticipated our visit to Myth for quite a while having chosen it as our first destination restaurant in San Francisco. While we’d eaten a few times at Ebisu (thoughts on Ebisu to come), we didn’t know what we were getting into there the first time so it didn’t have the pressure of the build up that Myth did. We showed up about a half an hour before our reservation. It was raining…who would have thought the cab would show five minutes after we called and that the cabbie would know the absolute fastest route through downtown? It didn’t phase the host one bit, however and she ushered us to Myth’s lovely lounge to have a cocktail while we waited for the table to “come back.” The wine list is seven pages long and worth reading. Don’t try to select any until you speak with Alex, though, as he has suggestions for every dish on the menu. One part of the wine list that is important to keep in mind – the half bottle; in fact, chant “half-bottles” to yourself on your ride over to the restaurant. It’ll keep you happier the following morning.

After a leisurely and well made set of cocktails we made our way to the tables (complete with a server carrying The Food Gal’s drink on a silver tray) and we were taken with the interior of the restaurant. Snaking banquettes and partially enclosed booths set against exposed brick and an open kitchen running along one side of the room made for an impressive setting. The result of the design of the banquette and booths is that most of the tables feel fairly private and allow you to both sit close to your dining companion and still have plenty of room on the table (you know, in case you have cocktails, a half bottle of white, a bottle of red….). Its basically a corner booth no matter where you sit.

Alex, the sommelier, swooped in at just the right time to ask what we were in the mood for and make some suggestions. He seemed to know his stuff, so we went with both of his suggestions. He knows his stuff.

The service was lovely…they are good enough and confident enough to be relaxed, funny and personable without being overbearing. Our server organized the dishes we ordered into a lovely set of courses that worked out quite well.

The oysters are not to be missed: Effingham Inlet Oysters Marinated in Cilantro and Lime with Yuzu Tobiko ($12). The yuzu sets off all of the briny, sea-salty goodness and the tobiko adds a pleasing sweetness to bring out the high notes. Paired with the half bottle of the Viognier, (E. Guigal, Condrieu, 2003 $29) it made for a perfect starter.

The full bottle of a perfect Grenache, (Coto de Hayas "Fagus", Campo de Borja, 2002 $59) set off the earthy flavors of our next couple of dishes: Garganelli Pasta with Foie Gras Cream, Maitake Mushrooms and Marsala ($8 for the small plate) was exceptional; earthy, creamy, light and deep. Wild Mushroom Soup with Rabbit Confit, Hazelnuts, Goat Cheese and Truffle Oil ($12) was a great dish to have served alongside the pasta. The flavors played well and highlighted the differences between the kinds of earthiness that exist in such foods.

Seared Scallops with Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Potato Puree ($25 for the entrée size) stood up to the Grenache and were emblematic of the amazing seafood to be had in the Bay area. The potato puree was wonderfully salted and balanced the scallops well. I was afraid it would be too creamy a dish, but the components were well designed and we were delighted.

The one miss of the meal was the Grilled Prawn Cocktail Pizza with Pancetta, Fennel, Pesto and Fontina ($15). That had a lot more to do with paling by comparison than with any problem with the pizza itself. We decided that Myth would be perfectly lovely for a half a bottle of wine and some pizza or for the ranging shared small plates but not both.

That said…the fries…oh the fries. Get the fries. It doesn’t matter what else you’re having, perfectly cut, fried and seasoned pomme frittes are one of the best things to eat anywhere, at any time at any point in virtually any meal. This is very true at Myth.

The desserts were good, but not particularly memorable. We tried the Cocoa Nib Creme Brulee and an Apple Cake that is no longer on the menu. All desserts are $8. I think, in the future, we'd opt for a second order of fries. Seriously.

Bottom line, for us: it was pretty close to a perfect exprience and we can’t wait to go back. It was a great way to kick off our restaurant exploration of San Francisco.